Anne Mustoe



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FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS

Have you ever regretted giving up your job?
Never. Building a career was a rewarding chapter in my life, but it's finished and I don't look back. I'm too busy enjoying what I do now.

When you first started out, you couldn't mend a puncture. Can you mend one now?
No. I've never mended a car, so why should I have to mend my bike? I pay someone to do it for me. I don't enjoy tinkering and I'm no good at it. But there's a serious reason too. In poorer parts of the world, the small sum of money I pay for a puncture repair is nothing to me, but to the man who earns it, it's dinner for his family.

But what happens if you have a mechanical problem in the middle of nowhere?
So far, I've been lucky. I usually seem to have these problems outside a bike shop! I had a puncture just once out in the desert, in Colorado. But my luck held. In no time at all, a man appeared in a pick-up truck and drove me and my bike to a shop in Vernal, where I got the puncture repaired. I was cycling round the world at the time, so I didn't cheat. I hitched a lift back to the spot where the nail attacked me and started cycling again from there.

What bicycle do you ride, and is it still the same one?
Yes, it's still the same old faithful, though it looks different because it's been resprayed and is now bright orange instead of sea green. Parts of it have been updated over the years, as cycle technology has advanced. But what I shall never update is my wonderful Brooks leather saddle. All those thousands of miles and I've never once been saddle-sore!

The bike is a Condor, (Condor Cycles.com) built specially by Monty Young and his team for my first journey round the world in 1987. It's light, but very strong, and I love it.

Specifications:-
  Frame Reynolds 631 Mixte, butted tubes
Transmission Shimano Deore. Front 28-38-48. Rear 13-15-17-20-23-26-30.
Wheels Deore LX hubs
Mavic TS19 rims
DT stainless steel spokes
Tyres Continental Top Touring 2000
Handlebars Humpert Pro Bars
Pedals Shimano M324 SPD
Saddle Brooks B17 STD
Mudguards SKS
Pannier Rack Blackburn Ex1

How far do you ride in a day?
I never train, so for the first day or two, I can only manage about 30 miles (50 kms). Then I build up gradually to about 50/60 miles. With rest days and sightseeing time, I reckon to average about 250 miles (400 kms.) a week, 1,000 miles a month. But mountains, winds and weather can affect that, and often do!

Are you very fit?
I am at the end of a ride. But when I'm in writing mode, I get out of condition, eat too much and put on weight. Then it's time for another ride.

How much baggage do you carry on your long journeys, and how do you decide what to take?
I carry two rear panniers, combined weight around 25-30 llbs. (11-13 kilos). On the rack between them I fasten a small nylon rucksack, just big enough to take my down sleeping bag. The rucksack makes a handy daypack or overnight bag when I'm not using my bike. On top of the rucksack, I lay my Thermarest mat, folded into four, which gives extra waterproofing. It's not a very elegant arrangement, but it's practical. I used to carry a handlebar bag too, but that isn't possible now that I have butterfly handlebars. I find I can manage quite easily without it.

Packing everything I need into two small bags is a challenge which I enjoy. For more details on selection and organisation, see the opening chapters of A Bike Ride and Lone Traveller. Here, as a sample, is the list of things I took with me to India:-

Cycling Clothes (layers worn as required)
  Long-sleeved cotton/polyester shirt
Loose cotton trousers
Lightweight wool jersey
Trainers, socks, baseball cap, cycling mitts
Anorak, waterproof trousers, woolly hat
Silk longjohns, silk long-sleeved polo-necked vest, silk balaclava.
  
Additional Clothing
  2 changes of underwear and socks
1 long-sleeved shirt, 1 short-sleeved blouse
1 nightdress
1 pair of flat sandals, doubling up as slippers
1 pair of smart cotton trousers and 1 smart top
Liberty silk suit, black silk T-shirt, black petticoat, black tights, black patent high-heeled sandals, small black handbag (for special occasions)
1 large all-purpose cotton square (as scarf, laundry bag, emergency pillow-case, sarong, etc)
1 swimsuit and small towel.
  
Medicines and Toiletries
  1 course of Amoxycillin (wide spectrum antibiotics)
Prescription medicines for my polymyalgia rheumatica
Imodium capsules
Aspirins, Senokot, Rennies
Paludrine and Avoclor tablets (malaria prophylaxis)
Antihistamine cream
Savlon antiseptic cream
Canesten cream (for fungal infections)
Cicatrin antibiotic powder
Anti-inflammatory gel
Selection of plasters
Clarins Sun Block (factor 25) for face
Ambre Solaire (factor 20) for arms and legs
Basic cosmetic kit
Tablet of Roger et Gallet soap (my one small luxury)
  
Miscellaneous
  Down sleeping bag
Thermarest sleeping mat
Universal plug
Swiss Army knife
Camping knife, fork and spoon set
Electric water boiler, mug, Nescafe, herbal teas
Torch
Alarm clock
Sewing kit
Nail file, clippers, tweezers
Airmail writing pad, envelopes and three notebooks
Compass
Nelles maps of India
India Handbook, Lonely Planet India
The Ramayana, Horace's Odes.
Stacks of Times crosswords, copies of Tough Puzzles.
Pentax Espio 115 camera and four slide films. 

How do you keep yourself supplied with cash?
It gets easier all the time, as there are now ATMs almost everywhere. It's one of the real wonders of modern technology that I can push a bit of plastic into a hole in the wall in some Greek or Egyptian village and get out a wad of the local currency. When I started my cycle travels in 1987, I had to set out with a stack of traveller's cheques. Now I just take a few sterling notes and dollar bills for emergencies, and rely on the ATMs.

Do you work to a budget?
I have to. Otherwise, expenditure would run away with me. I work out the minimum daily amount I think I can manage on for food and accommodation and try to keep within it. In Western Europe or the U.S.A., that calls for great self-discipline, but as I travel further south and east, I can move upmarket and still be within budget. As an example, on my second ride round the world which I did between 1993 and 1995, I worked on a budget of £20 a day, £150 a week. I went a little over that in Italy, but managed on less (often much less) everywhere else. In fact, taken over the whole trip, my average worked out at only £89.67 - much less than I spend at home. My 2001/2002 ride to Egypt cost more, because I was crossing Europe and the Middle East, and the only cheap countries were Turkey and Syria. I set a limit of £300 a week on that trip, but averaged just £164 overall. If I camped, travelled and shared accommodation with a friend, and/or rented out my London flat, I would be a rich woman by now!

Do you ever camp?
Not if I can help it. I'm too old for discomfort. At the end of my day's cycling, I look forward to a shower, a meal in a good restaurant and a comfortable bed. I rarely carry my tent, and the only time I've ever slept in it was in the Australian Outback, where there was nothing and nobody. Even there, I didn't crouch over a camping stove. I lasted out on trouble-free tinned tuna sandwiches, with nuts, fruit and chocolate for pudding.

What happens if you can't find a hotel?
What if? What if? How many questions start with those two words!
If there isn't a hotel, I have to rely on the kindness of local people, who always come up with a safe place for me to spend the night. I've slept in some funny accommodation - pilgrim shelters in Hindu temples, on the table in a station waiting room, seven-in-a-bed with Tadjik nomads (and when one turned over, the other six had to follow). I've even slept with the Chinese Army at a frontier post in the Pamirs. Being a lone woman has its advantages, as vulnerability brings out the protective in people and I'm obviously not a threat.

Don't you get scared? (Women ask this question)
Yes. Quite often. The time I was chased by a pack of wild dogs in the Atacama desert and the time I thought I was being kidnapped in Pakistan, for instance. But I deal with these emergencies when they strike. I don't cycle along worrying about all the dreadful things that might happen. What I have learned on my travels is that 99.99% of the world's people are kind, honest and helpful - much readier to give than to steal. And as for that .01% of a killer or a rapist, the one who always hits the headlines in the media, he's just as likely to pounce on me outside my own front door as he is in Zonguldak or Timbuktu.

Don't you get lonely? (Men ask this one)
Occasionally. I'm never lonely when I'm bowling along on my bike, or in the early evening, when there are always so many jobs to do, just to keep the show on the road - shirt and socks to wash, trousers to patch, tea to brew, notes and letters to write, the post office to find, hair to shampoo, etc. etc. The only time I really miss company is over dinner, but I get round that by doing a crossword or talking to chance acquaintances. People are much more likely to open up a conversation with a solitary person, particularly a solitary person on a bicycle, than they are with a couple or a group. Travelling alone leaves me much more open to experience.

Have you changed since you took to cycling?
Yes. So many of my attitudes have changed that I've almost become a new person. It's too profound a question for a faq file. Read Chapter 12 of Lone Traveller to find the answer!

Where are you going next?

I've just cycled across Australia and South America, so I think I'll try a European ride for a change - but there are so many tempting routes that I'm finding it almost impossible to choose.

What would make you give up?
Only ill health. There's still a lot of world out there to be explored, and I love the freedom and challenge of my cycling life.


If you have any questions that I haven't thought of, why not send me an e mail? anne_mustoe@yahoo.co.uk
I may be away on my travels, but I will reply as soon as I can.

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